Issey Miyake Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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For a wee moment, Issey Miyak’s fall-winter painted an expressionist picture of Scotland, remixed by Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s expert eye, to a soundtrack where strains of bagpipes and “Scotland the Brave” could be picked up, performed live by Open Reel Ensemble.

After an initial group in discreet grey check, it was off for associations of patterns that chimed well and made an otherwise sleek, classic collection pop. Pleats were used sparingly, but played with the zoomed-in patterns inspired by tartans and tweeds. Weaves became colorful hatching on coats and trousers. Longer lengths were seasonally appropriate, and there will be plenty to mix and match from as fitted trousers squared off with sweaters, long skirts swished out from roll-necks and outerwear displayed excellently tailored if slightly oversize proportions. There was even a bit of black, and shaggy additions.

Of course, it wouldn’t be Issey Miyake’s house if there wasn’t a bit of optical play, and the innocuous looking trousers revealed their colorful nature as each step opened up the side pleats. It was playful in mood and it showed with fuzzy arm-warmers, and models’ wide smiles.

The house’s perpetual innovation of fabrics has eliminated much of the bilk usually associated with the winter months, and with it, any awkwardness in movement. “Clothes that give you wings the moment you wear them!” proclaimed the show notes, and the impression stayed after the models had square danced off the runway was just that. Let’s fly with that.

- Lily Templeton

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