Issey Miyake Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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Upon entering the Grand Palais for the Issey Miyake show, the cordoned-off mirrored runway raised an immediate question: Were we in for another performance slash fashion show from the Japanese brand?

Yoshiyuki Miyamae writes a new score in the Issey Miyake repertoire of optical illusions with this spring/summer 2013 collection. Variegated shapes, always with a relaxed, quasi-casual feel to them, were decked out in an energetic interplay of color. As in the previous collection, there was a technical element to it, poetically chiming with the summer theme; heat sensitive fabrics and threads were used for the pieces giving them a sculptural, almost handmade dimension.

Pleats and double sided prints played off each other to create a graphically guided muddling of colors, some becoming muted, and some standing out. After easing the first group in this manner, floaty shifts gave way to more graphic patterns associations and cropped, layered lengths, before finally becoming a visually intensive rush. Intense blue, highlighter yellow crashed with white houndstooth stripes, that jump off the fabric as belts and bangles. Instead of models, these were photons and electrons, reflecting off the shining “tube” of the runway.

The most striking element was the energy irradiating off the clothes, with models taking to the runway with beatific smiles on their faces, zigzagging forward. Were the wire hats they sported some alien endorphin-inducing device? What is for certain is that Issey Miyake is spot-on with the geometric storytelling that is emerging as one of the season’s leading graphic trends.

- Lily Templeton
 

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