In the ever-evolving world of fashion – at least we hope it evolves – Issey Miyake has a particular position as its most technologically advanced experimenter, not so much in cut but in materials. Season after season, there are new ones; summer 14 will be no different, and the notes read once again like an obtuse yet titillating shopping list of the latest and greatest in warp and weft.
Perma-cheer is one of the staples of Issey Miyake’s brand, translated into fresh and serene outfits. Pleating that extended up along the side of the body gave a boost to the overall look of smart jackets, and warmer weather will be accommodated in a sweet blouse and matching grid-knit shorts. This season’s ubiquitous streetwear flavor was here in a mesh suit, layered on not only for modesty but also because it looked great. Further on, a pleated overcoat and similar looks were fantastic. The LBD in a “waffle” pleat was very fetching.
And yet, there was a stiffness that couldn’t be shaken off, even by the content smile of the models. For instance, the opening looks felt slightly cumbersome, as if the wrapped asymmetries of stiffer materials didn’t quite jive with the overall grace. And for sure, it would have been nice to see more of those combinations of pleats.
Miyamae made good on the progression felt last season in his work, and level of creative ownership of this line. While most of it will appeal to the staunch and satisfied Issey Miyake fan base, this collection remained perhaps a tad too safe.