Issey Miyake Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2016 Paris
Forgoing the usual theatrics, today's Issey Miyake show felt unusually close, not least given how much closer guests sat to the thin plywood runway. But chiefly because designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae proposed a collection rife with pretty dresses, sweet summery separates, and raffia-like fringing, realism permeating in every thread.
Working a jungle theme, this collection made practically invisible use of all the technical abracadabra developed over the years by the brand. Even the musical track was one you could really get into. It was the beat of the jungle, but only insomuch as the lemurs made famous by the animated film Madagascar were in charge of the playlist, making it catchy and clubby. By the end, the soundtrack had editors tapping along and dancing around in their seats as the performers gave it their all in the DJ booth.
Russet, vivid blues and greens; crisp white; the palette didn't stray far from previous seasons, assembled in combinations that caught rather than jarred the eye. T-shirts, long sleeveless shifts, textures shorts – many of these pieces were readily consumable. Even the pieces that were more identifiably Issey Miyake looked easy to grab, their hems curving discreetly on would-be Classic shapes.
Die hard Miyake fans may miss the more vivid components of the brand; this new incarnation slots in nicely in with the fresh, uncomplicated feeling that infuses the season. And by inoculating their high-tech DNA into more wardrobes than ever, they may well trigger a lasting contagion, and provide a new generation of hosts.