Italy’s fur sector presses on with ready-to-wear trade show TheOneMilano, which will unfold in Milan’s Fiera Milano City fairgrounds Feb. 20th - 23rd. Now in its seventh edition, TheOneMilano was originally founded as a joint venture, bringing the MIPAP (Milano Pret-a-Porter), MIFUR exhibitors and buyers together in one venue.
Its organizers, who have garnered the support of Italy’s foreign affairs and International cooperation ministry, ITA, the nation’s trade agency and local artisan association Confartigianato, are determined to build TheOneMilano as a one-stop Haute Couture fair, on the fashion calendar.
Though the Italian fur market hit rocky times in 2015 when Russia’s ruble began to decline and oil prices plunged and a strong anti-fur campaign emboldened vanguard brands like Michael Kors, Gucci, Burberry and Versace to go fur free, purveyors of Italian furs and fur fabrics are banking on business from the East, where a penchant for real, fine furs in South Korea, Azerbaijan and Russia are keeping the industry afloat.
“In these countries, furs are a must,” said TheOne president Norberto Albertalli, formerly the head of the Mifur fair, at a press preview in Milan on Thursday
In Milan, where family-run furriers and their businesses peaked during the prosperous industrial boom of the 1960s, the Dolce Vita jet set lifestyle and Italy’s new found wealth of the 80s, firms are adjusting to the changing times and embracing new and old sustainable techniques.
Organisers of TheOne will showcase two traditional techniques that have been passed down from 12th century Florence: The first, remodeling, or the recycling of leathers used to create a unique and new garments will be demonstrated by Massimo Gervasini of Emmefurs a "Slow Fur" brand, which utilizes used furs instead of new ones. The second, dubbed “The Hand Dance,” is a sequence of movements that create an inlay, a perfect seam joining two different materials. The latter will be presented by the Pelliccia Fabian firm, whose owner Marcello, a Padova-based Maestro of Art and Experience.
In September, TheOne will join forces, enlarging its consortium of fairs and will showcase alongside MICAM Micam, Mipel and HOMI Fashion&Jewels, in order to more than double the amount of buyers.
The February edition of TheONE is expected to unfurl under the aegis of “It’s Always Winter Somewhere” theme, featuring a giant construction of trees and Milanese details like the 1930s era, weeping water “vedovelle” water fountains. The massive, unprecedented showcase has been designed by celebrated Italian set designer Margherita Palli and star architect Italo Rota.
The project is one-of-a-kind in the fashion industry. It is the first time the event has called on the vision of two globally-renowned artists to reshape both its sales spaces to infuse a sense of emotion and shine a light on sustainability, Rota explained.
“The idea is that the exhibition should be as low-impact as possible, with modular structures and reusable materials to reduce waste. It is important for us to be able to appreciate the positive aspects of the climate emergency. TheOneMilano might even become a touring event in the near future."
Image credits: TheOneMilano presenta la nuova edizione disegnata da Italo Rota e Margherita Palli che valorizza il made-in-Italy in collaborazione con il Ministero degli Affari esteri e della Cooperazione internazionale, ITA/ICE e Confartigianato.
sx: Rendering progetto Italo Rota e Margherita Palli
dx: Progetto Made in Italy: Making of e Superbrand