Scanning the entire J Crew presentation, set in a large, enclosing arc in the still-new Pavillion of Lincoln Center, it was the womenswear line that immediately drew the eye. Not because of strength of design or because of cohesiveness when compared with the corresponding men’s collection, but purely because of optics: the women’s collection literally sparkled. With a pair of gold sequined trousers, and a gilded floral G-dress, the collection had considerably more glitz than the men’s collection across the way.
Upon closer inspection, the 20s/30s inspiration for Tom Mora’s women’s collection were clear: dropped waists were there as was a bit of fringe. One shirt in particular seemed to be a shrunken version of a twenties drop waist frock with embellishing and fringe at the hem. Colors came aplenty, especially in a long, bottom of the shin-length fur scarf and a floral printed skirt. Some of the calmer looks, in regards to palette like a beautiful pale pink coat and a grey dress, focused intently on the silhouette. Never one to forget roots though, Mora tossed in a few sweatshirts and pairs of jeans for the masses.
Frank Muytjens too included sweatshirts – his reading “home ward bound” – and denim in his collection for the men of J Crew. When not denim, pants included slim fit trousers and even a healthy selection of sweatpants. The 1930s waterfront inspirations crop up in duffle coats as well as workwear minded suede bombers while Chinese prints cover scarves.
Both collections are only a continuation in Jenna Lyons’ and Mickey Drexler’s current winning streaks.