J.Mendel Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York
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What crystallized in Gilles Mendel’s mind as he designed the Summer 2014 collection was the Gainsbourg song “Cargo Culte”, and from there, he drifted away from his resort siren towards this gamine muse of the French singer – think Jane Birkin, 2014 edition.

Mendel did best when he kept things simple with a soft pink and white tank dress in thick technical silk, the geometries of a grey sequined jacket, a perforated white bodice flowing into a draped skirt. Watered-down highlighter yellow, prettily titled “Soleil” added a punch of definition, playing up on the sheer paneling of his outfits.

Fur is ever present, discreetly but present nonetheless. Mendel comes from a family of renowned furriers, so there is no denying that he likes the stuff.  For summer, he uses it sparingly, almost as an afterthought, a white shrug casually slipped on. It reinforced the luxe narrative, for as gamine as he wished his woman to be, she still is very much his core customer, albeit with a youthful outlook.

There was an abundance of lace, coming together as a patchwork of different motifs. At times it was a little too jarring but others – when doing away with the florals, actually – it added a smoldering undertone that would come to full fire at the end, in the jaw-dropping black evening finale.

– Lily Templeton
 

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