J.W. Anderson Menswear Spring Summer 2014 London
If last season J.W. Anderson accentuated male thighs in ways seldom seen before, this time around the spotlight was on male shoulders. Clearly working in the avant-garde mold, Anderson went one step further in the experimental realm with sculptural sleeveless tunics (or LBDs) worn over slouchy pants, halterneck tops, male clutches and sheer half-aprons. Twisting female wardrobe classics into menswear with a more confident sleigh of hand, the young designer has developed a corresponding sharpness and (a word not usually associated with his work before) maturity that truly served his design approach.
While you don’t often see men in crop tops and shoulder baring, bow-decorated blouses, it was Anderson’s magnified focus and severity of line that made them work in the context of the collection. Besides pushing the boundaries of androgyny, there was a sense of something jagged, something (artfully) gone wrong. It was exactly that sense, running through the deconstructed tops and those with an added, nonfunctional appendix (think side panels, stiff folds and even large frog-like origami) that elevated his designs to state-of-the-art objects. While there were the occasional wrong notes, the collection constituted another bold step in developing Anderson’s conceptual aesthetic, and it’s that boldness, regardless of criticism, that has and will be pushing the brand forward.
- Maria Dimitrova