Jantaminiau Couture Fall Winter 2011 Paris
INTERVIEW | Welcome to the curious world of Dutch couturier Jantaminiau. Instead of interpreting his unique vision through our own words we caught up with the designer straight after his show to hear what he had to say:
Now Fashion: Hello, what an extraordinary show
NF: Tell us about it
J: The inspirations. It was about a long, elongated woman, about extending, about what would happen and what is happening which is why I played with this idea of muscle structure. I imagined if the skin was taken away and you reach the wood which would be taken off or put back on again to get some structure in it. Long, tall women who are proud of their bodies, I thought this was nice.
NF: I, well, I can’t think of any other couturier who does what you’re doing, last season you made your own materials that were luminous or flourescent in the dark, did you make any of your own materials in this collection?
J: Let me see, we did the embroidery, all the flower details and shoes with cork but with this collection we didn’t do any weaving. We used cork to get the wood structure.
NF: Where did you source the cork from?
J: We found it at a company who were using it for industrial use so it was really clean. We took it and started playing with it, we boiled it to get it back to its more natural form or to a way I liked it.
NF: Which comes first the design or the material?!
J: Ha, that’s a difficult one, it’s like dancing together. I’ll like a material and then I’ll like a shape, they go hand in hand, one inspires the other, it’s a comfortable mix for me.
NF: Take for example the final dress, how long did that take to make?
J: That’s hard because first you have to build the whole shoulder shape, layer the whole cork part over it then we nailed, I don’t know, I avoid people counting the hours because it gets scary.
NF: Where’s your atelier?
J: In an old farm in Baambrugge, twenty minutes from Amsterdam.
NF: The countryside?
J: Yes. So we have cows surrounding us, a lot of grass and green, very quiet.
NF: How many do you have in your team?
J: Depending on which season, now we’re twenty with five interns.
NF: What was the title of this collection?
J: 'Nature extends'. The sequins go from gold to the cork colour then silver to the cork colour again. It’s like everything would become one that’s why the hair blended into the colour and the colour went into the dress and everything flowed into itself.
NF: The pleating on looks one and two look magnificent, are they structured around a corset?
J: Yes corsets underneath to get the beads sitting the right way.
NF: Is there anything else you would like to say about your collection?
J: Just thank-you for coming to see the show!