It looks like Jason Wu has found his own answer to the nagging issue of designing a winter collection for an industry that increasingly seems to be ignoring seasons. Today global warming and globe hopping customers mean designers need to be thinking about clothing options for multiple climates. Or at the very least pieces that can move from freezing cold exteriors to over heated interiors.
And how does Wu address this dilemma?
Easy. First create some ultra luxe outerwear. Say a black shearling coat that is shot through with shimmering astrakhan embroidery, embellished with leather accents and topped of with mink and sliver fox features. Or a bottle green parka cut from satin, its sleeves adorned with fox and lined in shearling. And for those looking for something a bit more understated in their outerwear, how about a delectable eggplant purple leather overcoat or a double breasted pearl grey angora alternative.
Once cocooned in these warm pieces, in Wu’s mind, there is no need for anything more then a slip dress worn underneath. Making them the perfect sartorial alternatives for both sizzling winter soirées and warm weather getaways.
“I wanted to create a very cozy collection,” said Wu after the show. “Important looking outerwear, that sort of protects the body, yet inside is a little film of a slip dress that’s peaking out. I thought that it was really sexy and feminine, and the kind of clothes that modern women want to wear today.”
But Wu being Wu, those slip dresses had a lot of complexity to them. Trying to minimize seams, the designer let the fabrics- velvet chiffon jacquard, satin back crepe, panne velvet- guide him in the way he laid them across the body. Gathering the textiles together with a slim metal bar, or hanging it off of spaghetti straps, for elegant, yet often a bit daring, asymmetrical results.
“It was a study in gravity,” said Wu with a laugh.
But the designer can count on a number of buyers gravitating to this strong show.