The cheers could be heard echoing out from the backstage before the Jason Wu show got underway. And right they were to be so optimistic about this spring/summer 2013 line up. The design showed a collection with a crystal clear direction. One in which your friendly neighborhood dominatrix- with here harness belts and leather bodysuits- showed off her feminine side though the use of embroidered lace and semi sheer polka dot chiffon pieces that fluttered about the body.
“The collection was really all about contrasts,” said Wu backstage as he wiped multiple red lipstick kisses off his face. “I was looking at the works of Helmut Newton and Lillian Bassman and how they are both very different photographers but what they have in common is the appreciation of the feminine form.
Wu too knows how to hug and hold a woman’s curves with his body con looks.
The show opened with supermodel Carolyn Murphy in a black leather number, soften up with a peek-a-boo lace insert at the torso, that hinted at the idea of a designer trying to seeing the soul of a silhouette.
This x-ray vision of fashion had Wu making the inner pinning’s and the construction of an ensemble -the corsetry, seam work, lingerie - the central theme of the show. Even the ghostly flower print pieces -which looked like silky black and white copies of their colorful originals- worked effortlessly well within the designer’s theme.
If Wu blended in the concept of bandage strap dresses that made Anthony Vaccarello a house hold fashion name, he did it in a way that showed how the style could actually function in the real world. It looked particularly enticing on the eveningwear where it grounded the shimmering tulle skirted gowns the closed the show.
With this collection Wu, who will turn 30 at the end of the month, proves himself to be a designer with a long and bright future ahead of him.
- Jessica Michault