Jason Wu Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York
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Jason Wu Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York

When designer Jason Wu closed his eyes and thought about the woman he imagined wearing his spring/summer 2014 collection one person came to mind- model Karen Elson.

And so it was that the flame haired beauty opened Wu’s show in a gold halterneck dress. Her hair slicked down as if she had just finished a swim in her infinity pool and simply slipped on the sandy shimmer gown and a pair of heels for a last minute night out on the town with her fashionable friends. Because that is what this collection conveyed, an easy elegance, nothing too overwhelming just a relaxed approach to glamour. Which is saying something considering how much sequins the designer actually used on the designs in this show.

“It really was all about exploring ease and femininity,” said Wu about his starting point for the show. “But I also wanted to explore the idea of construction more with this collection,” he added.

The construction elements were pretty well hidden in the clothing, for example choosing to add a bit of chain woven into the bottom of a caftan so that the flowing fabric would fall just right. And of course, Wu turned to his well documented love of the construction aspects of lingerie as another way to add structure. This popped up as bra tops on his slip dresses, a corset detail slimming the back of a roomy coat or a bondage bandeau design on a black jumpsuit paired with a sheer top that front row guest Alicia Keys signaled out as her favorite outfit of the show.

This was a collection that didn’t sizzle with sex appeal. Rather the heat of the sheer safari shirts with well placed pockets, the bustier tops in shining fabrics and a ruffled pullover burned with a more measured heat.

- Jessica Michault