Leave it to Jason Wu to find a way to make ruffles and flounce look fiercely feminine. The designer might have titled his show “Glamour,” but that one word description somehow fell short of expressing the powerful elegance of his Spring/Summer 2016 offerings.
There was much more happening on the catwalk then mere glamour. There was a rawness and almost ethnic attitude to the designs that Wu brought to life via textural materials like woven raffia, fur, and silk gauze that frayed at the edges of a number of appealing looks. It was almost as if being pretty wasn’t going to cut it for these clothes; they demanded to have a strong moral fiber at their heart.
This season, 32 year old Wu found a way to blend America’s love of sportswear with an evergreen sophistication that took this line up – from the crop knit tops and high-waisted pants and the open back ruffled dresses to the sleeveless suit vests and big belted coats – to a fresh and fertile sartorial ground. Even the addition of a cool new snakeskin tote into the mix, which Wu called the “suvi,” pointed to a designer looking to offer his customers pieces that do not have a six month sell-by date attached to them.
This was a polished and poised collection that showed Wu to be a very thoughtful designer. Someone unwilling to be swayed by the tides of fashion, instead he would rather make his own waves.