Jealousy Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 Kiev
“Jealousy” bit deeply into fashionable guests on October 28th, as the spring/summer 2013 collection announced the debut of this brand titled after a certain green-eyed monster and designed by duo Sasha Stukalskaya and Tanu Muino. For a first show at the Kiev Fashion Days, the youngest Ukrainian brand of the schedule certainly made a memorable splash.
Their cuts were kept voluntarily very simple, almost simplistic, and inspired by geometry; more precisely, the triangle which become here a raglan sleeve, there a dart. Necklines were demure but bare midriffs –the new, new cleavage – turned up the heat. No adornment, save for repetition prints and punchy summer colors. From afar, the prints looked like strangely spiky tropical flowers. But closer examination revealed dinosaurs. Yes, dinosaurs! The last time these long vanished reptiles caused me this much excitement was as metallic totes for Giles Deacon’s spring/summer 2010. Triceratops and T-Rex, tooth and horns, repeating like fractals. Placed prints are undoubtedly one of the most difficult design exercises, and one they navigated with success, balancing the strong burgundies and mustards with cunningly placed white space. Along the hemline, this gave the lightness of lace while keeping enough punch.
Backstage, the duo explained that it was the easy shapes of the 80s and 90s that had inspired them, a time where femininity felt less complicated. Among the people congratulating Stukalskaya were not only professionals like Not Just A Label’s Stefan Siegel, but also fans eager to place private orders. It will come as no surprise when these Odessa natives start to land retailers around Ukraine and globally on the back of this promising debut and their jaw-dropping low retail prices.
- Lily Templeton