It all began when designer Jean-Pierre Braganza met one of his fans, Kiev-based installation, performance and sculpture artist Zinaida Lihacheva, after his show in February 2011; immediately bonding over a common passion for visceral dark symbolism, this season the two have collaborated in the making of ‘Phonetheus’, Braganza’s latest dose of distilled yet sharp urbanwear. Strikingly graphic ensembles in black and white open the show, with light blue creeping up on the surface in the form of panels, forming Mondrian-like patterns on sheath dresses. The trompe l’oeil prints inspired by Linacheva’s abstract paintings are balanced with streamlined and sleek silhouettes, making Braganza’s collection equally appropriate for an office and an art gallery opening in Shoreditch. His signature subcultural references are kept more under wraps this season, replaced by an avant-garde-for-everyday-life aesthetic. The real showstoppers were his panelled trousers, cleverly cut leather jackets and the sensational white trouser suit just before the finale – the collection’s climactic symbiosis of form and content.
- Maria Dimitrova