Jil Sander Menswear Fall Winter 2014 Milan
It is never easy when a house loses the designer whose name it bares. Its hard enough for a brand to do this once, let alone three times, which was the daunting situation facing the Jil Sander label on Saturday.
Showing its first menswear collection since Ms. Sander’s latest abrupt departure, the in-house creative team had a lot of good will from the fashion crowd going in. But the question on everyone’s mind was how crucial was the designer’s guiding hand in the sartorial equation. Particularly for a house famous for its minimalistic tendencies. By the end of the show, the answer was obvious - it was vital.
There was nothing particularly wrong or off putting in this collection. After all, the same team who surrounded Sander during her latest flirtation with the house created it. But somehow all those expected boxy tops, stiff jackets and two tone sweaters seemed to be missing that all important spark of creative genius.
At some points a glimmer of ingenuity could be spotted. The inclusion of a degrade jacket, a sweater with a front zipper that started at the middle of the torso, even the broad stripes of shimmering fabric chosen to zing down the front of pants had a certain charm. But if ever there was a brand that needed a firm hand at it’s helm it is this one.
Here’s hoping it finds one soon.