MILAN--This 2015 mens spring summer collection marked the last season Jil Sander's mens wear line was designed by a creative team without a leader.
Rodolfo Paglialunga, who was recently tapped as the brand's new creative director, is preparing to unfurl his first official collection for the brand in September.
With a video installation produced featuring models wearing the collection and performing slow Tai Chi-like moves, the design team enforced the sense of movement embodied in this season's ready-to-wear.
Tadpole-like prints were splashed onto day time suits, while the Jil Sander logo was deconstructed into a woven motif that gave short-sleeved shirts and matching cotton pants an almost island happy hour quality.
Once again, this season we witnessed a huge merger between suiting and sports wear, with a variety of relaxed-fit looks accompanied by high-top sneakers, chunky shower-like sandals and multi-functional backpacks and messenger bags.
A sense of gravitas, however, was expressed in rigorous metropolitan looks and stark silhouettes achieved through snug knits and neatly-pleated straight-legged pants.
Paglialunga, who will make his debut with women's wear this fall, is known for infusing the romantic French label Vionnet with his own modern twist. No stranger to creative and corporate uncertainty, it remains unclear if the brand will allow the current design team to continue with Paglialunga.
With a cerebral, carefully engineered collection, the squad's legacy did not end on a sour note... if in fact it is the end of the line for them.