Rodolfo Paglialunga, how does your garden grow?
At Jil Sander, the designer’s minimalistic gardeners – in their folded straw hats and short square heeled shoes – looked as if they had taken a trowel to their satin dresses and silk separates. Slashing openings at the shoulders of linear jackets, digging a chunk out of the side of a textural shift dress, or breaking apart a skirt to hang open just below the knee.
There was an understated beauty to the deflated mutton leg sleeves of a pair of two button blazers and poetry in a single white silk top with full off-white sleeves left open at the sides and anchored by wide cuffs. Even the harder elements of this collection, panels of fabric studded together to create tiered apron dresses, had an architectural edge.
This was a collection that was determined to stay under the radar. A private garden that only those willing to make an effort to seek out will ever be able to find. It is a choice by Paglialunga that might be a bit too limiting in its approach.
After all, if there aren’t enough people to tend to a garden then how is it ever going to grow?