John Galliano Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

This just in: Bill Gaytten has located the fountain of youth and dipped his collection in it. There was very little dramatic flair in what walked on the runway, save for the music, fast paced and punchy, just like the clothes he designed. That is perhaps the new secret sauce of Gaytten's Galliano: electric energy.
 
It zinged off jackets cut from polka dot punched fabric revealing an acid yellow background, pinged off a blue coat with pockets that looked like they could all be zipped off. The graffiti-vivid primal yellows, reds and blues were played down by more muted prints, less eye-popping but no less interesting, like the fractured geometries of triangles tumbling down trouser legs. Loose, untucked, uncomplicated, even the words he used to describe his collection fell in at a staccato pace: a collection that is “Full On. Full Stop.”
 
But street-savvy threads were executed with as much tailored care as any suit, and that is clearly Gaytten’s forte. There was absolutely nothing ungainly about the clothes, even when piling on shirt, sweatshirt and coat. Nor was there any unsightly slouching in the silk pajama trousers he’d paired with a fitted jacket and one of Stephen Jones’ fedora caps. Even the polo shirt was purloined from prepsters and got a make-over that left it big sleeved and cool. Varnished within an inch of their lives, creepers gave the city boy’s brogues a run for their money.
 
The designer seemed supremely comfortable as he took his bow and with good reason as the show we had just witnessed felt entirely his own, in proportions he'd never seemed to allow himself previously. By steering the house in this new direction, Gaytten showed he not only has the chops to do high-brow fashion, but that he’s equally talented at tapping the sportswear vibe. Word.

- Lily Templeton