John Rocha Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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John Rocha Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London

When one of the most sworn lovers of neutrals starts injecting bubblegum pink, coral red, and meadow green in his Autumn Winter collection, it is clear something’s in the air. Delectable, summer hues have demanded a prominent spot in winter attire and judging by John Rocha’s darkly whimsical, it’s a shift only for the better.

Inspired by Gary Hume’s saturated palettes and dramatically simplified forms and the bright landscapes of Wicklow, Rocha has embraced graphically reduced palette that, more than ever, demonstrated his precision of choosing just the right colour and shade. For what could have quickly tipped over to tacky or frumpy – a sugar pink mohair coat or a full-blown mossy green crochet dress – in Rocha’s hands came across as tenderly fragile and elegant.

The designer’s mastery of sustaining movement was also prominently on display: his signature oversized coats and teacup skirts lightly bounced in unison with the models’ tulle headdresses twisted with artfully disheveled, cotton-candy hair, while silk georgettes, chiffons and flurries of fluttering blossoms added a lightness to the brand’s customarily austere silhouette.

There were also, of course, the swathing tints of black in tactile fabrics like rugged felt, tweed, and latex glazed lace that attest to the designer’s inexhaustible capacity for innovation, even if only perceptible in the detailing. Though even when it comes to amplifying the volume in a big way – with a mouthwatering colour palette – Rocha is at the top of his game, and we can’t help but hope he turns the switch up even more in the coming seasons.

- Maria Dimitrova