A much anticipated show, Dutch designer Josephus Thimister drew a large crowd to mark his formal return to pret-a-porter. Thimister was the creative director of Balenciaga before Nicolas Ghesquiére was appointed in 1996. Ironically, on a day that was overshadowed by the news of John Galliano’s future dismissal from Dior, Thimister’s show was entitled ‘mystic circles of fallen angels’. The opening mood portrayed by the procession of first looks, all black and with the models walking to quite mournful, monastic music was felt by all.
The show however progressed to a more redemptive mood. Black was gradually replaced by pure white, barely there beige and slate green. The ecclesiastic music, a mix by fashion show soundscape creator Fred Sanchez gave a feeling of rebirth and purity. Some interesting textiles were used. Paper-thin python skin, dyed white and crafted into a long sleeved smock and dress captured the eye. Waxed cotton was used for a maxi, mid-length overcoat with huge lapels. Nearly sheer linen was used for jumpsuits, cowl hooded jackets and shorts. A stand out look was a linen dress tied with a thick, matte brown leather belt and matched with over-the-knee slate coloured boots with heels similar to cowboys boots. Kimono's and the colours of rural Ireland felt to be light references.
The final looks, jackets and large jumpers made by knitting cashmere with fur did invoke an image of angels walking amongst men, their wings now used to adorn their statuesque forms. The collection however didn’t drown in its own concept, far from it, Thimister’s relaxed designs show that he's thinking of a whole range of women of all sizes, elegant and thoughtful, professional and casual.