Julien David Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

Hotly anticipated since his name landed on fashion’s radar in the wake of his ANDAM win last summer, Julien David’s third menswear collection is the first to be shown on a runway. “Don’t be cruel,” insists the young designer for his fall/winter 2013-2014 menswear show. Alright, but to whom? As he revealed backstage after his show, this was not about nature but about menswear, where “there is always a lot of dramatic flair. I wanted something more natural, more relaxed.”

On the runway, this translated into a cocooned feeling, as seen through his streetwear sensibilities. Thick flannel, fluffy alpaca and even a fabric deemed “crazy wool” were the basis for his neo-suiting that included drop crotch chinos, lush overcoats, and oversized jackets. Relaxed as this collection may feel, there was no slacking on the quality of fabrics. 



Mixing tailoring with casual is a tightrope exercise but David pulls it off beautifully. Proportions are everything: jackets are oversized, trouser legs are rolled up to reveal the ankle and casual flatform-like sneakers. 



Youthful elegance is the master word for his work, and the welcome update to tailoring shows that he fully understands the younger generation, who refuses the trappings of traditional male elegance, while wanting the same level of quality. 



- Lily Templeton

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