An art installation more than a fashion show, Julien David’s fall 2014 was a four-handed endeavor between the Tokyo-based French designer and artist buddy Antoine Wagner, a one-time collaborator of popular French band Phoenix.
On the runway, a 18-foot LED screen served as a backdrop animated by a movie scripted by the pair, who met a decade ago in New York. The beat imparted by the a cappella rap remix, created by David, gave the presentation a tempo that wasn’t so much streetwear as street aware. Out came a perfect melton coat, multiply faded denims, quilted suede jacket in proportions that were readjusted a touch to make them interesting. Of the more showy pieces, the thick knit of a stripe suit had something haute hippie to it, as did the fluffy white bouclé separates.
But beyond the fifteen-minute show setting, these clothes will do well on the streets and will work beyond the editorial appeal and shine out by the craftsmanship involved. David played with our perception of handmade/machine-made. What appears to be hand tooled fabric is actually industrially processed wrinkled cotton, while the vulcanized treatment on shoes was entirely constructed and stitched by hand. Considering the artistic leaning that colored the collaboration - anything from garments to video was discussed - between these artists of image and cloth, hardly a surprise to find more than meets the eye.