Julien David Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

Just right in time for the current political turmoil that is blackening the newspapers all over the world, from Brazil to Turkey, Julien David had words such as “Madness” and “War” screaming in eye-popping hues on washed cotton jersey T-shirts, as well as on passementerie and stadium jackets. A clever, captivating detail which turned out to be the recurrent pattern that brought some rhythm to the designer's second menswear runway show in Paris.


Whether these motives were intended as a political statement or not, the “smells like teen spirit” like atmosphere that came along with them clearly pinpointed aesthetics borrowed from an underground cultural scene. “For this summer, I was interested in referencing to some ways early reggae artists that have been mixing various styles and type of clothing in their outfits, I was also very influenced by some of the songs of Dub Poet Linton Kwesi Johnson, who is famous for his story telling over reggae beats,” explained the designer when asked about his new menswear collection.


And Rastafarian it was! The former ANDAM winner has been fond of alternative streetwear for a few seasons now and successfully paired the slouchy 90s reggae aesthetics with more elaborated fabrics and cuts, such as tropical-looking cotton jacquard that was used for drop-crotch jumpsuits and preppy shirts that were nonchalantly sported with jacquard ties and stretch chino pants.


Julien David also made a nod to his previous designs by reusing pop-art like objects and nature motives. This said, these prints, knittings, and embroideries have been subjected to some raw edging this season and came in magnified and pixelated versions – think of the “Island” palm-tree motive that was all over the catwalk. It felt a bit like being in an old Mario Bros Nintendo game: a simple, straightforward and naive take on design and yet you can have plenty of fun with it, just as you might have with this collection.

- Elisabeta Tudor
 

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