Julien David Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

“It’s the mother’s wardrobe,” laughed Julien David after his fall-winter 2013/2014 show in the galerie Nikki Marquart, referencing his previous season to well-wishers who came to congratulate him on his latest, which had been stacked with notable faces such as The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman or high-flying buyers like Maria Luisa Pomaillou.

Indeed, what had just paraded on the runway was a little more sophisticated and grown-up, a little more couture in some ways, while keeping in David’s youthful touch. Fabrics, as always, provide the starting point for David’s work. Each is developed or reworked in his studio in Japan and produced there, to take advantage of the country’s first-class textile industry.

“How could I twist that, make it cool, make it rock?” was the underlying question that guided the 2012 ANDAM winner in approaching each piece. A hooded puffer jacket’s contrasting panels look like silk, a prim-and-proper skirt suit is cut from shaggy wool, a shift dress and matching grandpa cardigan sparkle with little snowflake shapes accessorized with, wait for it, a bag!  Proudly announced with its own page in the show notes, Julien David’s first handbag, the “Pillow Bag” and its puffy, squeezable, made-in-France quilted lambskin made its debut.

 “My idea was to mix transparent, translucent fabrics with denser, thicker ones.” The dichotomy between thick and thin didn’t quite play out as seamlessly as expected. For each piece of shaggy, feathered wool, there was a piece of satin stitch “plumetis” that danced in front of prints, or a transparent dress to counter a puffy coat, and these lighter, almost summer-y offerings felt off-kilter.

“She’s very well educated but she’s going to the bad side,” he said as a conclusion. But his chic punk’s bad side is still very, very good and Julien David is confirming that is very much a seriously cool designer.

- Lily Templeton

 

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