Julien David Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 Paris

Julien David called his collection "Tactical Formation", it was quite divisive; less eye-catching and zany than previous seasons, and perhaps not quite to the taste of hardcore David aficionados. Treat that as a consequence of his inspiration, but also consider this: given the clientele his price point drives to, this is also a tactical move. 

The outdoors was David's wider theme, and they provided plenty of activities for him to mine. So here's an equestrienne who has a thing for camouflage. What it really meant was outerwear galore, always a strong suit for the French designer as it highlights the pizzazz of his tailoring. The embroidered cotton coat was fantastic - all yellow lapels and contrasting red thread quilting - as were his light wool pants and beige Peruvian wool pieces. As always, it's on fabrics that David does most of his R&D, and the kick he gets out of this research shows. The chain embroidery that meandered over the camouflage, for example, served to freshen up the mottled print, or figured it colorfully. A soldier print pumped up the volume on a luscious cardigan. All terrain shoes finished off looks that begged to storm the city. 

Not long out of adolescence, yet not quite an adult, the David girl is clearly growing up. At least, she is embracing those trappings. That isn't to say she's becoming a stiff. There were plenty designed for play too; those briefcase clutches, for instance, that crossed over from menswear and shrunk in the process. Or the oil slick knit paired with skinny trousers. The more sophisticated fare was likewise dealt with a dose of youthful indulgence. Longer coats had their sides cut into thick fringes easing the gait; parkas just begged to be layered under jackets. Cool, camera-friendly fare is his creed in creation, but credit him for knowing when to change his tack. 

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