"Coherence and evolution" stood out in the congratulatory words offered by new French couture federation chairman Ralph Toledano to Julien David, just after his summer 2015 show in the Musée de l'Armée in the Invalides. Dance was the loose theme around which David arabesque-d, but it was mostly the grace and style of dancer Maria Kochetkova whom he met prior to the conception of his collection that gave the tempo of "Etudes et Preludes."
While the references were all about dance, the volumes were decidedly street-savvy, as is his wont. David whipped out all sorts of shapes girls go for these days: snappy little blazers, long sleeve T-shirts, smart dresses, and those zany tulle best-sellers. Brandenburgs made of fabric covered ropes looked fantastic. Hitting the sportswear trend on the nose with his materials and relaxed approach, the French designer smartened them up with impeccable cuts. Little twists like polyurethane-bonded jersey kept the tailored shapes on the right side of casually dressy.
If anyone had forgotten dancers were athletes, the marled gray jersey reminded one of that, but the grown-up sophistication was unmistakable. This gentle pas-de-deux felt like another leap forward for David and his creative choreography.