Juun J. Menswear Fall Winter 2013 Paris

Juun.J knows his tailoring inside out and proves it in his fall-winter 2013/2014 collection by confronting volumes and proportions as boxy bomber jackets flowed into the reverse of long wool coats.

The Korean designer once again demonstrated his knack for transforming the male form with the strength of his constructions. As if to indicate that he started from a clean slate, his initial exits were immaculately white. For fall-winter 2013/2014, Juun.J invites to return to a rounder, more emphasized upper body, that could almost have taken its roots in the feminine wardrobe of the ‘New Look’ era.

Never one to settle too long in any comfortable routine, he also exercises his architectural skills through transformable pieces, self-referencing previous collections in new ways, layering a bomber jacket atop one coiled around the waist. His construction is displayed plainly not only in the visible reverses but also in the extremely fitted jackets and coats that he created. Balancing at the cusp of armor-like rigidity, they were softened by the suppleness of voluminous leather sleeves. Juun.J played with lengths, long ones that he imagined supple, and shorter ones that became straighter, more geometric.

It follows that the trouser is almost an afterthought in this winter wardrobe. Apart from a handful of wide legged variations displayed with shorter jackets, they are so fitted and forgotten that they might as well be leggings.

The more skewed his garments became, the more beauty of their faultless construction revealed itself. Getting a full appreciation of each piece as they went by became an exercise in rubber necking, almost the observation of a sculpture. Failing to do so would have been to miss the “reversing” embroidery topping a sprawling bird motif, one of the few adornments of this collection, or the playfulness of artfully assembled folds.

As finale, his models took turns, clad in boxy sweaters adorned with Greg Simkins’ prints, furthering the graphic aspect of the Juun.J storytelling, as befitting for this generation of gregarious, rebellious dressers.

- Lily Templeton

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