Juun J. Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris

Designer Juun.J titled his spring/summer 2014 menswear show “UNUNIFORM”. The concept of the collection, according to the show notes, was for the house to disintegrate “the barrier of the ‘familiar’ by breathing new life into an already told story”.


The designer attempted to do this by bringing together polar opposite ideas of dress. Say sportswear and business attire, or oversized and fitted. He even took on blurring the line between masculine and feminine dress. 


Sometimes it worked well, for example at the start of the show a series of voluminous American football jerseys, with the player’s number in bold relief across the chest, were paired with fitted shorts. Or when a pair of high waisted trousers would be banded close to the body at the torso only to loosen out into spacious pant legs. Less convincing were a group of cocooning oversized outerwear pieces with drop shouldered sleeves cut from denim or glossy nylon.


One interesting development was how the Korean designer morphed those rounded football jersey tops into classic men’s shirting, all the while keeping that same broad shouldered style, which was then echoed in hulking suit jackets tucked into shorts. Luckily the designer also provided some traditional proportions for those jackets, thus underlining his ability to create more tailored options.
 
The inclusion of earrings and stacks of chunky minimalist bracelets by Ambush added an architectural appeal to the collection, steering clear of the cloying side of feminine dress. The same can also be said for the printed T-shirt images of children’s faces that were finished off with animal features (dear horns, lambs ears). The color palette of the Oleg Dou visages might have been sugar sweet pink, but the overall effect was slightly disturbing.

On the whole Juun.J succeeded in his quest to find a new avenue for menswear. It just remains to be seen how busy that boulevard will be with customers.  

- Jessica Michault
 

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