Post-Pop kitsch to the nth degree – Katie Eary’s show left the audience reeling back slightly during the blackout just before the curtain call. Owing the acid-toned collection to two of her favorite contemporary artists, Jeff Koons and Kaws, it became clear why the image on the invite – which also happened to be the leading motif today – was a crossbreed between KAWS iconic brain sculptures and Koons’ balloons. It was quite the antithesis to the sentimentality of Craig Green’s collection that featured immediately before Eary’s.
Titled “Areas of Fresh”, the show looked into the anatomical curiosities emblematic of KAWS and the tactility of Koons’ sculptures. The balloon dog was referenced in the metallic lurex turtle necks seen throughout the collection. Eary also pulled a Burberry-style finale with 80’s lurex of every shade one could possibly imagine.
Most of all, as alluded in the balloon brain graphic, it was the irrationality of the show that earned it its credit. Models wore brain-like caps and had make up that bore striking resemblance to KAWS’ toys. The references to the two artists just kept on coming.
The actual garments themselves were substantial. Fur trimmed parkas, woolen pencil trousers, quilted cashmere lumberjack shirts and neoprene sweaters were just some of the essentials for winter.
Eary’s 8th season serves as a sweet reminder of all that we love about London on LC:M’s closing day. Whether it’s Craig Green or Eary, Dunhill or Burberry, ultimately it’s the diversity and the mixed bag of perspectives that these designers bring to the table that makes London Collections: Men the epicenter of contemporary menswear.