Preparation is everything. At Kenzo, the need to be prepared is ever present, and the spinning geodes, one side rough and the other sparkling with stones, evoked adventure, uncharted expanses of sun-drenched landscapes. Successful traveling, particularly when departing on the kind of desert exploration that Carol Lim and Humberto Leon envisioned, depends on packing just the essentials.
The new collection emphasized practicality and was rife with utility-enhancing details. Ready for the flight deck, a jumpsuit bridged the gap between formal and scrappy. Slashed at the shoulders, it could make room for an oxygen-tank, or just look sharp. The ubiquitous Kenzo logo sweater was barred with crossed pulls, easily accessible for immediate adjustment. They featured heavily throughout the collection, snaking along sleeves and playing at hem lengths. An overcoat featured smooth fabric on the front and a crinkled texture on the back – all the better to roll up in your knapsack, just like in the YouTube videos. 3D knitwear gave a cloud grey sweater a terraformed look. Beehive mesh and slashes at folded joints – elbows and knee backs – provided much needed natural ventilation. Translucent, paper-thin nylon looked repurposed from the landing devices, forming a membranous silhouette that hinted at limbs beneath, giving new meaning to second skin. Multiple nylons formed a geometric patchwork, making elegance out of recycling, while acid washed denim spoke of hard wear. Sensible shoes, either sandals or desert boots, completed the kit for the perfect explorer. It was a great balance of utility and design, in a palette of purposeful neutrals.
Should you get stranded in a desert or dropped off on Tatooine, there would be far worse things than having this for a wardrobe.