Kenzo Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 Paris
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For the fall-winter collection presented at the Université Pierre et Marie Curie in Paris, the designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim distributed their guest on five of the multicolored floors of the modern building. While the guest savored delicious chocolates cup cakes-offered for the event and Shyne Po and Sean John Combs talked music.

Karlie Kloss rode down the escalator from the top floor and opened the show. The collection started with an opaque color palette in olives green, maroons and grays in flannel wool and tweed evoked the fall- as well as bunches of grapes created by Juan Gatti, recalling the colors and graphic prints for the rest of the collection.

"For this collection, we've opened the door on the Kenzo woman at home, showing her in her most intimate environment, surrounded by personal belongings" said Humberto and Carol for their first Fall/Winter collection for Kenzo after their debut in Spring/Summer 2011.  

Patterned knitwear is worked into a variety of shapes and color combinations taking visual cues from tapestries. The duo also stressed tailoring, which showed up in the fresh little skirtsuits of blouson jackets with full, flippy skirts, as well as in a narrow, high-waisted, ankle-length skirt that was slit up the back. More looks means more to sell for these merchandisers extraordinaire. It was nice to see their tiger logo sweater in different colours, a revived house code. 

Functionality seems to be the key to the new Kenzo! They've created garments with zipp-offs that transforma cropped jacket and skirt and also focused on technological fabric treatments, like rubberized exteriors on coats to fend off rain.

Real walnuts are preserved in resin and encased in walnuts shells crafted from metal for the necklaces, bracelets, ring and shoes clips created for the Roman jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez.

http://www.kenzo.com/

-Mario Casarella

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