The pressure was on at the Kenzo show. And I am not referring to the audience, which had to take in the ensembles at a breakneck speed as the models rounded the highly circuitous catwalk. Nor is this an allusion to living up to the seriously disquieting centerpiece sculpture that looked like a sightless doll head and the equally eerie music that was supplied by uber cool David Lynch. No, the stress center was seated in the front row.
Founder Kenzo Takada was taking in his first show at his namesake brand since designer duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim took over the house.
They didn’t disappoint him.
The close quarters catwalk might have made it harder to get an overall feel for an ensemble but it certainly help make it easier to appreciate all of the wild and crazy prints the designers were deftly mixing together. A bright yellow zigzag oversized coat with crisscrossing lapels had a zesty tartness. A mad, possibly futuristic swiss army knife print came on everything from suiting worn with a full circle short skirt and girly dresses to a cocooning coat and tapered trousers. Then there was the three dimensional beadwork on knitwear that leaned bugle beads up against each other to make rows of spiky points. That last sartorial concept is destined solely for the pages of glossy magazines.
It was a clashing kaleidoscope of color, print, proportions and perceptions that had a youthful frivolity that was rather infections.
By the end of the show, the usually elegantly laid back Kenzo looked completely engrossed with the work that was being rolled out before him. There even seemed to be a smile of pleasant surprise teasing at the corners of his lips.
What more could Leon and Lim hope for?
Watch the show!