In the concrete hills and valleys of a Parisian skateboard park, Kenzo placed giant Stonehenge like digital pillars. On their screens a looming avatar face of a young woman (the real person was tucked away backstage being motion captured) welcomed guests to the show in five or six different languages. Her message: "There is no Planet B, protect what's precious." It was a clever play on the term "Plan B," which underlined the need to save the earth.
But it wasn't this conservation concept that resonated with the audience most strongly. It was the avatar herself. She looked like an amalgamation of ethnicities- everyone and no one at the same time.
The same could be said of this Kenzo collection. There were hints of the 60s in the abstract prints, 70s outsized shapes, 80s sporty style and 90s minimalistic dresses seen on the catwalk. All of it was stirred together with a strong dash of Asian inspiration and a dollop of futurism. This resulted in something better then the sum of its parts.
It was a true melting pot of a collect, where a slim tunic top and a gossamer semi transparent skirt would follow a pair of super wide denim pants and a rounded roomy jacket. Or a Mod baby blue jumpsuit would show up right before a pastel shaded print top with some of its abstract shapes coming to life via appliqué slices of additional fabric (in matching shapes and shades) that would subtly move as the models walked.
Designers Carol Lim & Humberto Leon also catered to their street style loving fans. Besides a playful pop art sweatshirt and the branded bags that had the word Kenzo laser cut across the leather, they also offered up sunglasses that looked like virtual reality headsets. All of the perfect accessories for a concrete catwalk close up.
This collection might not heal the world but its universal appeal certainly will find clients around the globe.
Kenzo S/S 2015. Daria Shapovalova at Paris Fashion Week from NOWFASHION on Vimeo.