KRISVANASSCHE Menswear Spring Summer 2014 Paris
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Calling a collection Cognac Sport leaves a lot of room for interpretation. But it does underline this idea of trying to raise the bar of activewear. Distilling it down to the base compound to create something new and sophisticated. Something that allows the sporty essence to exist in the more refined world of men’s tailoring. This looked to be the challenge that designer Kris Van Assche gave himself with his spring/summer 2014 menswear show.

He by and large succeeded in this endeavor. Mostly thanks to the adroit way he blended say the center pocket detail and drawstring waist of a parka with a classic shirt or how he brought together a trench coat with a pullover peacoat. Clever too was the introduction of a textural crocodile design as a central “breast plate” motif on shirts. It looked particularly sharp when paired with classic two button suits. It also worked well when the pattern was incorporated into a fine knit sweater, although it was a bit less original as the foundation for luxe backpacks.

The introduction of a graphic polka dot motif helped break up the rather sober color palette of the show. As a print on shorts and jackets it worked fine enough but the trompe-l'oeil sweater options, which revealed some of the dots to actually be holes in the weave, felt a bit forced.

There will be a lot in this collection for the sales team at the designer’s first stand alone flagship store -which opened this month in Paris at 16 rue St. Roch in the first arrondissement- to propose to their clientele. A customer who is in search of a sporty style that is just as suitable for the salon as it is for the street should easily find something to buy chez Assche.

- Jessica Michault
 

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