KTZ Menswear Spring Summer 2015 London
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What is it with Greek Gods? Ever since Versace gave Medusa an Eighties makeover, transforming her from snake-haired villain into a gilded glamourpuss, that particular strain of mythology just keeps coming back. Dolce & Gabbana, Juun J, Mugler, Versace (again): everyone, at one point or another, is holding out for a hero.

It was KTZ's turn this morning - and although the sight of show notes captioned "URBAN WARRIOR" is nothing new, the collection was presented with such energy and conviction that it was difficult not to surrender. Other designers might take a theme and run with it - but Marjan Pejoski put his vision through the full decathlon. Minoan, Roman, Hittite, Persian: every surface was given the full Ancient Mediterranean, with supersized Greek lettering, swathes of interlocking stamp prints and whole armies frozen into classical friezes.

The funny thing was that it actually didn't seem like that much of a stretch. The label's loose, athletic shapes and pattern-hungry surfaces were made for this sort of approach. And there was enough Asterix-goes-to-Athens humour in the plaster-cast, six-packed breastplates and gold-winged baseball caps to ensure there was no danger of anyone missing the joke.

No one was laughing, though: to the early morning, fan-heavy crowd, the KTZ cult is a serious business. They came dressed wall-to-wall in the label's greatest hits: punk tartans, word-splattered sportswear, wildly printed capes and rainbows of tropical-coloured sequins. And this black, white and orange Greco-Roman extravaganza will simply become another layer in their tribal armour. It was almost sad to see the army dissolve, after the show - disappearing off into the grey rush-hour crowds, each one an individual superhero.

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