For KTZ's defection to New York, he chose the history of his new presenting country as a point of inspiration. While the designer only copped to using Native American culture as a part of his process, with arrows as hair accessories, a military jacket that looked like a reworked Confederate piece and leather caps that fit within that silhouette, his designs seemed to move into commentary territory. When pressed, Marjan Pejoskin said the military jacket got its start with Jimi Hendrix and that the collection got its start with Native Americans, and then he moved on to take other questions.
Even his PR, Kelly Cutrone, deferred, saying the silhouette of the cap the designer was wearing happened to be similar to a Confederate cap but it wasn't a commentary. She pointed to the notes which spoke of a primal woman, sexualized and empowered. And though those things might ring true, one couldn't shake the feeling that there was a mood of American's fetishizing the people whom they deprived of land.
The pieces were beautiful, the technique stupendous. There was a lot to love: a blanket-like floor-length color punching coat, standout rings and saliva-inducing heels all designed in-house as well as the aforementioned caps. It was sexualized, the black rubber making the point by its overuse in the collection, but no matter what Pejoskin and Cutrone said, this was definitely a commentary.