La Musique; Le Fashion: Balmain & Dior

There’s no denying that music and fashion have an inextricable link; and there’s no denying that 2016 was a tough year. So leave it in the hands of Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing to bring some optimism back into the world (it’s much needed, thank you).

 


Balmain Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)​

 

“It was an optimistic moment and I think it is important to mention optimism in Paris because of what happened; I want to bring back the lights and the richness of my city, the decadence,” the designer said backstage post-show, one that was a tribute to all of the musical icons we lost last year – combined with that Balmain boldness and va-va-voom, because they are one and the same thing, essentially.

“I always say fashion meets music and what gives me energy in fashion is music, the music is so important; music broke so many boundaries in fashion,” he explained. “I think I wanted to do this collection thinking about all of the legends we lost last year, because they were legends in music and fashion; they broke boundaries in fashion.” Something which, if you think about it, Rousteing has been pretty good at doing himself. Balmain does what Balmain does and it’s nothing to do with anyone or anything else – that’s why there’s a Balmain army. You’re with or not. For him, in one way or another, that originated with David Bowie, Prince, George Michael and Michael Jackson.

“The heavy metal, the rock ‘n’ roll, the pop factor; I think it’s something I don’t want to lose and something I want to re-introduce into fashion because I think that sometimes people forget that music helps fashion to be creative and inspired.” It’s true. Getting ready for a night out? Music is surely your accessory of choice.

“For example, everything started from music, like a simple short T-shirt from heavy metal that I just brought to couture level, all those embroidery dresses that aren’t actually dresses, they’re just T-shirts with lots of craftsmanship. I think, with the music of Freddie Mercury and Jon Bon Jovi, it’s important to bring it back that era. I think that was the era that helped fashion be so strong at one point.”

 


Balmain Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)​

 

And if you looked at Rousteing’s catwalk, you could see that it was strong alright: this was a huge collection, simply vast and among all the trophy pieces (because that’s surely what these were), the bling and embellishment, the camouflage and military references, the Eighties shapes, the luxe skins and the incredible embroidery, this was nothing if not strong. It was unashamedly in your face. And it wasn’t street, or sports – certainly not in the way we’ve been seeing it since London and Milan and now Paris.

When it comes to Balmain, “bold” is an understatement of a descriptor, and here the models were well and truly having their rock-star moment, perhaps hardly surprising seeing as Rousteing has managed to carve himself out as something of a rock-star designer since he joined Balmain. He has an X-Factor, one can’t dispute that.

“I feel like when you say you like the 90's and you’re my age, people are like ‘ugh’,” – Rousteing is young himself at a mere 31. “But I don’t want to wait 30 years or more to be sure of what I want to say. And I’m really happy with the collection, I have to say, I’m really relaxed.” It’s true, he was, and why wouldn’t he be? This was a compelling show. But then Rousteing is also a compelling person.

“I have had really tough reviews, as you can see, but what makes me happy is when my models are young and happy to be part of the show and part of fashion week. And sometimes I think fashion is such a beautiful moment in time and fashion week, I think we need to enjoy, and today was an explosion of memories, of nostalgia, of how I can see the future.” Right now, it’s hard to argue with that. It’s also hard to argue with Balmain – it speaks for itself whether you’re on board or not.

 


Dior Homme Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Paris (Anna Palermo for NOWFASHION)​

 

Welcome To The Dior Mosh Pit

I’m not sure about you, but had I ever frequented a mosh pit that had quite the same civility, cool factor and rather brilliant wardrobe on offer as Dior Homme's, I might have rethought its appeal.

Music. We finally saw another layer of inspiration filter into the menswear shows aside from the street – a firm and fast menswear Fall/Winter 2017 trend favourite. Kris Van Assche added the rave factor to his collection this season to make it look like one big awesome party – but smart with it. Because with everywhere else there is a decided lack of suiting, at Dior Homme, it’s part of the DNA. And thank goodness.  

Still as sleek and natty as they’ve ever been, this time they came with an added cool – a little bit tough and rough (because that’s the only way one can survive a rave), cropped wide-leg trousers, super square and futuristic shades, mussed-up hair (that dude obviously danced way too much), and safety pin or badge adornments.

Thread-trailing bombers, fur collared coats and puffas – of course – strode out among hoodies and hardware, with an incredible rave scene print on ponchos and iridescent suits later on. This was, basically, a cool AF collection. It felt modern among a landscape that has become congested of late and managed to shift its focus more on rave culture than it did street apparel.

 

Read our latest fashion features and trend reports in NOWMagazine.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Japanese Korean and Nigerian Designers Opened Paris Fashion Week
By Gianluca Cantaro
Paris Fashion Week started with Japanese designer Mame 'Maiko' Kurogouchi. With a humble nod to...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Paris Fashion Week started with Japanese designer Mame 'Maiko' Kurogouchi. With a humble nod to her time in Iceland, the designer channelled the dry nature of autumn mornings and the primitive lands that made her think about the wisdom of everyday life. The traditional basket-making became the...
Paris Fashion Week started with Japanese designer Mame 'Maiko' Kurogouchi. With a humble nod to her time in Iceland, the designer channelled the dry nature of autumn mornings and the primitive lands that made her think about the wisdom of everyday life. The traditional basket-making became the fil rouge of the collection, starting with laced details on blouses and dresses before switching into...
Luca Benini Finds Power In The Unruly
By Gianluca Cantaro
In the 80s and 90s, the Italian music scene birthed a punk...
By Gianluca Cantaro
In the 80s and 90s, the Italian music scene birthed a punk rock band called "CCCP - Fedeli alla linea", which, at that time was considered to be amongst the most influentials of the scenario. The band came from the "left-winged" Italian region Emilia...
In the 80s and 90s, the Italian music scene birthed a punk rock band called "CCCP - Fedeli alla linea", which, at that time was considered to be amongst the most influentials of the scenario. The band came from the "left-winged" Italian region Emilia Romagna, famous for their joyful and rebel-like attitude. To be precise, they were from Emilia, the...
Giorgio Armani Streamed a Velvet Touch
By Gianluca Cantaro
The Covid-19 (Coronavirus) became the hot topic for the last day of Milano Fashion Week and, due...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The Covid-19 (Coronavirus) became the hot topic for the last day of Milano Fashion Week and, due to this, Giorgio Armani decided to show his collection behind closed doors by broadcasting it via stream on all online and social media channels. It was a decision that shook the System and obsessive...
The Covid-19 (Coronavirus) became the hot topic for the last day of Milano Fashion Week and, due to this, Giorgio Armani decided to show his collection behind closed doors by broadcasting it via stream on all online and social media channels. It was a decision that shook the System and obsessive fear spread out among the fashion people. Through the screens of every device, the collection was an...
A Play on Sensuality and Streetwear
By Elisa Carassai
On the penultimate day of Fashion Week, the tension was palpable. Looking around Milan’s usually...
By Elisa Carassai
On the penultimate day of Fashion Week, the tension was palpable. Looking around Milan’s usually full streets and alleys, now completely deserted, one couldn’t help but wonder if the level of alarmism was to be listened to or if it was just mediatic paranoia. After all, both Giorgio Armani and...
On the penultimate day of Fashion Week, the tension was palpable. Looking around Milan’s usually full streets and alleys, now completely deserted, one couldn’t help but wonder if the level of alarmism was to be listened to or if it was just mediatic paranoia. After all, both Giorgio Armani and Laura Biagiotti had declared they would be holding their shows via ‘closed doors’, streaming them...
Raf Simons Joins Prada As New Co-Creative Director
By Alice Ierace
Italian luxury fashion house Prada has announced the appointment of Raf Simons as co-creative...
By Alice Ierace
Italian luxury fashion house Prada has announced the appointment of Raf Simons as co-creative director of the brand. Simons will be working in partnership with Miuccia Prada with equal responsibilities for creative input and decision-making.Officially starting on April 2nd of this year, the first...
Italian luxury fashion house Prada has announced the appointment of Raf Simons as co-creative director of the brand. Simons will be working in partnership with Miuccia Prada with equal responsibilities for creative input and decision-making.Officially starting on April 2nd of this year, the first Prada collection designed by both Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons will be the Spring/Summer 2021...
Modern Women Archetypes At Ferragamo
By Gianluca Cantaro
The complexity of today's women is what excited Paul Andrew, Creative Director at Salvatore...
By Gianluca Cantaro
The complexity of today's women is what excited Paul Andrew, Creative Director at Salvatore Ferragamo. This season, the brand showed a woman born from a blend of modern archetypes – a theme that the Swiss psychoanalyst and psychiatrist Carl Jung identified and deeply inspired the designer. In...
The complexity of today's women is what excited Paul Andrew, Creative Director at Salvatore Ferragamo. This season, the brand showed a woman born from a blend of modern archetypes – a theme that the Swiss psychoanalyst and psychiatrist Carl Jung identified and deeply inspired the designer. In short, the queen, the mother, the lover, the sage, the maiden, huntress and the mystic were...
Technology Maximalism and Tradition Meet in Milan on Day 4
By Elisa Carassai
Walking into the Gabriele Colangelo show, the first thing that came to mind as one looked at the...
By Elisa Carassai
Walking into the Gabriele Colangelo show, the first thing that came to mind as one looked at the interwoven separè that divided the runway, was the fact that the designer must have been inspired by Bauhaus weaver Anni Albers or American textile artist Lenore Tawney. Yet, he revealed that the...
Walking into the Gabriele Colangelo show, the first thing that came to mind as one looked at the interwoven separè that divided the runway, was the fact that the designer must have been inspired by Bauhaus weaver Anni Albers or American textile artist Lenore Tawney. Yet, he revealed that the starting point of the collection didn’t actually come from an artistic viewpoint. “I experimented with...
Giorgio Armani Beautifies Women with Emporio
By Gianluca Cantaro
After the Emporio Armani show, Mr Giorgio opened up and talked about today's state of fashion...
By Gianluca Cantaro
After the Emporio Armani show, Mr Giorgio opened up and talked about today's state of fashion and, generally, style. “Trends don't exist anymore,” stated the designer backstage after the show. “Our job as designers is to make the women beautiful. we need to make them feel confident but also guide...
After the Emporio Armani show, Mr Giorgio opened up and talked about today's state of fashion and, generally, style. “Trends don't exist anymore,” stated the designer backstage after the show. “Our job as designers is to make the women beautiful. we need to make them feel confident but also guide them to be aware of their age and body. Often we see types of women that are out of reality and...