On the last day of the Spring/Summer 2016 Paris menswear season, Lanvin's menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver took the brand down a New Wave, Thin White Duke, rock and roll road.
The models, with their hair slicked back like David Bowie in his Duke incarnation, walked quickly and with purpose down the catwalk. Their slim silhouettes crafted from dark winter jewel hues embodied, according to one menswear editor, a modern flâneur.
That is a pretty on nose assessment of the style.
When you don this Lanvin collection, you are so cool that you can wear a leather coat or jacket when it's 90 degrees out and never break a sweat. Layering of multiple garments looks like a breeze and bunching up the arms of a jacket above the elbow so that the underlying pattern shirt looks like tattoo sleeves is rebelliously chic.
The collection was cohesive and precise. Everything dovetailed together beautifully. From those slicked back hairdos to the roomy nap sacks and all the way down to the practical open sandal footwear.
But this rock and roll road is a path that Ossendrijver knows quite well at this point. It is a route he has traveled before and he is familiar with all its curves and crossroads. As well executed as the collection was, it’s time for this designer to explore some new byways. He needs to let Lanvin get lost so that it can discover the unknown.