The jacket, as simple as soft masculine tailored trousers. A long striped shirt grazing the floor. Bows on necks, fabric flowers, jeweled sandals. Right from the first look it was clear that the house of Lanvin's changed gear since the departure of Alber Elbaz. For her debut at the maison designer Bouchra Jarrar displayed her more relaxed mood from the very start of the show. More easy-going, soft and feminine, like a discussion between women.
Technically the house has come full circle with a feminine trio: Jeanne Lanvin, the founder, Shaw-Lan Wang, the Taiwanese business woman who owns the historic fashion house, and the new creative director who came out hand in hand with Karlie Kloss at the end of the show.
"This season at Lanvin is a new beginning," Jarrar explained to MFF, "I explored sensuality and lingerie, creating clothes around the body, revealing and veiling the silhouette. I was looking at the essential and the harmonious."
Stucco and chandeliers echoed the dresses which explored different dimensions. From jeweled details like the scarf-necklaces in metallic knit with strass fringing, which dangled from the crooks of arms and gripped ankles. Slip dresses revealing as much as was necessary mixed with plumes of feathers on voluminous waistcoats on lightweight dresses which are the new staple piece, even under a leather biker jacket. With masculine riffs and reinvented tuxedo jackets. From necklines and front panels ruffled at the waist to large florals, bursting into hot hues.
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion