Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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Lemaire Menswear Spring Summer 2016 Paris Credits: Regis Colin Berthelier
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New era or not, Lemaire seemed to adhere steadfastly to the minimal path set by seasons past. As a designer, Christophe Lemaire has a natural gift towards pure, clean lines. Given his brand's ethos of self-possessed timelessness, workwear, Maoist uniforms ,and other hardy source material inevitably came to mind in the strict and precise cuts. Hardworking summer materials ― selvedge cotton, poplin, cotton-linen canvas, and denim ― in a neutral masculine palette would no doubt transcend time, and wear. If a change was expected, a sharp eye was needed to detect these subtle shifts.

In the coming summer, ascetic design was only half of the story, an evolution that is brought by the conjunction of natural evolution and the shifted balance in creative power. This was expressed most strikingly in the mood. Gone is the sense of melancholy that infused the Lemaire glossary. In its stead, there is the raw, contained sensuality of dancers, an expressed balance between serene immobility, and a flurry of movement. The nonchalance of Lemaire remains, a Francophile's purported Nouvelle Vague, but connected to reality by nonchalant sneakers and slip-ons.

That much was evident from the sensual flash of flesh offered by a muscle top skimming the model's torso just so, to detailing that betrayed designed imagined in motion. 

Sensuality had long been simmering beneath the surface but never has it been so blatantly expressed. Quizzed backstage, Lemaire and his partner Sarah-Linh Tran spoke of liberated gestures, of movement, and of the grace of dancers, for whom many of the practical details ― elasticated waists, pleats giving adding invisible adjustments ― were inserted. All this legerdemain built on the unprocessed, unresolved tension while leaving space for the essential variable of a body. "Our clothes are made to accompany life," the designers said. Fortunately, nothing could obscure or blend away the precision of a Lemaire cut. Even layered, there remained no extraneous bulk, cementing the impression of weightless sensuality. 

Lemaire clothes have long embodied a sensible normalcy. But the empowered confidence exuding from these silhouettes had the same mesmerizing quality as a usually buttoned up character letting loose. And that was perhaps the most seismic shift to be detected.

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