These are not your mother’s flower prints anymore. At Leonard, there was a bit of a youthquake as the collection opened with a sporty ensemble of a varsity jacket and mullet skirt, in a combination of blue leather and brushstroke flowers. Former designer Maxime Simoens sat in the front row, nodding approvingly as models from in his successor Rafaele Boriello stalked past on the white runway bisected by a bright pink stripe. It seems that more than one house has sport and art on their mind this season.
Sportswear and glamour, today the twain shall meet. Designer Rafaele Borriello combined elements of both to create the updated wardrobe of the modern Leonard woman. One look saw a bright blue vest top, creating a deeply graphic V-neck paired with cropped printed trousers, a refined option for sportier types. More expected was a Tiffany-inspired print featuring flowers in pinks, vivid and nude. But they too received a small dose of unexpected as the draping down the sides of trousers mimicked the padding on biker’s gear. There were some outfits that seemed dip-dyed, again a different tack. At the end, flowers were gone altogether, replaced by smatterings of dots, and this highlighted the less sensual, yet no less luxurious variations introduced at Leonard.
Building on the momentum of past seasons, designer Rafael Boriello is slowly bringing Leonard up to speed on the latest fashion trends. And he’s showing that he’s just as good with the simple effectiveness of a bustier jumpsuit as he is with the airy While not exactly a cutting edge powerhouse, the brand is without doubt one of the prettiest perennials on the calendar.