Les Copains Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Milan

Citing as its inspiration the atmosphere of Grey Gardens, the cult 1975 Maysles brothers' documentary about Edith Bouvier Beale and her daughter, Little Edie, the theme got lost in translation in this collection, which was void of the Beales’ delicious eccentricity (read: merch-friendly contemporary tailoring and knits riffing on 50s sportswear). Great Grey Gardens expectations aside, in terms of standalone collections it was a sweet enough offering for the preppy Italian label, though, proposing leopard-print wool pencil skirts, cigarette pants in animal-print metallic jacquard, short slim coats, and some nice knits (the house’s specialty), including chunky cropped basket-weave pullovers, oversized striped angora sweaters and - in a twin-set vein - a long fitted mohair top and pencil skirt combo, worked in blurry stripes of pastel anise green, mauve, pink, cream and lavender.

- Katya Foreman