MILAN – This past winter, Italy's most influential fabric makers pegged sporty mesh as the next big thing to hit menswear... and they were right.
That trend was most evident at Les Hommes, where it was the main protagonist on the stage set by designer-duo Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch.
Swollen basketball caps, tank tops, and even the backs and sleeves of blazers were crafted with netting.
The aim was to depict an "urban surfer," but the Les Hommes Spring/Summer 2016 man came off more like an urban baller, who wears his clothes like they are his everyday armor.
Emphasizing this was the aggressive black, white, and red color palette and the stiff silhouettes that played with proportions. Boxy shirts, maxi bombers, sweatshirts, and t-shirts were crafted with neoprene. Trousers were fortified with knee pads or ribbed, leathery reinforcements.
For evening wear, jacquards were aggressively patterned with digital shell prints and tribal designs. Laser-cut leather embellishments infused the collection with a hint of artisanal flair.
A softer side of this city dweller was seen in the organza evening shirts, silk evening suits, and even his boy bags – diminutive mini pouches and shoulder bags.
In terms of accessories, Les Hommes teamed up with Eddie Borgo, who is famous for his luxe art deco designs – showing that this tough guy has some serious taste.