Loewe Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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Spain is the birthplace of the Loewe house and since Stuart Vevers took over as the brand’s designer seven years ago that Mediterranean country has been a wealth of inspiration for his collections.

This time Vevers turned to the city of Bilbao what has been having a Renaissance moment ever since the Guggenheim Museum created by Frank Gehry came into being. It was that juxtaposition between traditional and modern architecture that the designer was exploring on his fall/winter 2013 catwalk.

His models, their hair done to recall that of Tippi Hedren during her Hitchcock days, stalked the catwalk wearing shoes outfitted with a punky horsehair Mohawks down the heels and sexy split front skirts that exposed garter belts for all the world to see. These sensual element of the show were the perfect counterpoint to the designer’s more voluminously shaped pieces that dominated the collection.

Vevers is clearly comfortable experimenting with the many techniques this leather house has to offer. This season his material of choice was shearling.  It showed up as shaggy coat in shades of black, crème and fire engine red worn by both women and men (walking the Loewe catwalk for the first time).  Or in its shaved, napa, incarnation it came as structured jackets, round shouldered dresses or coated onto the front of a chunky black sweater.

As for all of that Bilabo architecture, it played out in graphic details. Leather patchwork inserts on a shearling coat given a textural bump thanks to it the material being shaved down to different lengths was one clever way Vever’s incorporated the idea. More dramatic were the graphic color block “tiles” in leathers that covered boxy tops or raced down the front of a knee length coat.

The introduction of a white and blue Spanish porcelain print on silk dresses made for a nice addition to the show and helped add an element of movement into the overly stiff designs. The Vever’s decision to give the print fabric a quilted effect on the back was clever way to update the Signora style.

As for the accessories the news was in the handbag department. The brand's new Amaya bag, that was inspired by the brand’s highly successful Flamenco handbag, debuted in the show. It added a perky, youthful element into the mix of this fine collection.

- Jessica Michault
 

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