Jonathan Anderson has seen the light at Loewe. The Irish designer decided that the way forward for the Spanish house, known for its leather craftsmanship, is to combine the beauty of natural-born luxury materials with those fabricated by man.
In a collection that rode the razor’s edge between bourgeoisie good taste and that which is tantalizingly bad, he challenged his audience by juxtaposing slick PVC see-through pieces, mirrored shards and silver plastic fringing with those in leather, cashmere and suede. The combination on the catwalk created a palatable tension to this divisive collection.
There will be those who will covet the synthetic iridescent degrade trousers, the transparent Loewe monogram jacket and the clear plastic puzzle bag. While a totally different clientele will find their sartorial happy place in Anderson’s milk chocolate brown suede wrap coat, a tone-on-tone striped pony hair tracksuit, or a subtle beige linen top.
There were also a lot of outlier ideas in this show. The metal tinsel-fringed dresses and the pieces constructed with bits of broken glass come to mind. As do the Saran Wrap pants that opened the show. Although they will be the looks that will get the most editorial play next season. But Anderson found a few places where the disparate style preferences of the broad Loewe customer base could come together in a way that will be palatable to both parties.
This is where the Canadian geese motif and the logo prints came into play. The fowls found a home on a beautifully cut chambray shirt with buttons in an assortment of stone, metal and wood closures, and they flocked onto the front of a classic black long-sleeve silk top. As for the logo pieces that saw the name being repeated the length of a pair of pants or scattered across a shift dress, well, those tend to please everyone for different reasons.
And a shout-out must be given to the designer’s cable-knit sweaters, which he finished in see-through material at the shoulders. They looked both chic and cool. Which is exactly the kind of intriguing textural conflict that can make a collection great.