"I wanted to be optimistic and joyful,” explained Creative Director Jonathan Anderson after the Loewe show. "I imagined a child that plays with mom's ball gown in front of the mirror, giving a 2D effect to the 3D object.” Being positive is often synonymous with being light-hearted, something that lets you enjoy life (and clothes) as it is without any layers. Sometimes fashion forgets to let people enjoy just looking at the garments themselves. This could be the way to look at the collection that the Northern Ireland-born designer presented today for the Spanish brand. The beautiful combinations and juxtapositions were the leitmotif and in a juvenile play, double-breasted suits and prom dresses were worn as aprons. Opposing matters were proposed as curved and straight lines, shiny and matte surfaces, bright crystals and rough wool met. Felted funny hats completed the childish look and contrasted, once again, the military references in fabrics, colour and shapes. Easy and comfy knitwear for long sweater dresses and small cable knits with crystals were paired with wide coats made with couture constructions. Anderson took the audience to a sort of accidental trip, the shiny dresses worn over the tailored jackets looked like an Indian saree as well as the decorations on the enlarged elephant bags, a successful carryover for the past 6 years.
Chitose Abe at Sacai keeps exploring tirelessly the idea of doing things in a new way, she said. This season, as usual, the collection showed both men and women but, this time, she started from the pantsuit and reworked it giving a new and unexpected look. The military uniforms were reshaped and layered, losing their original function in order to become a mere decoration and were combined with animal prints, denim and tartans. Despite the layering and Abe's signature all-in-one construction, her silhouette is always airy thanks to the silk patterns – she managed to turn the stiffness of the military uniform into a mere decoration by applying the softness of leisure and sportswear. Another step that adds a new chapter to her constant research of the widening of the spectrum of combinations.
Jacquemus presented a co-ed collection where, strangely, women and men looked like they belonged to two different brands and worlds where the only shared element was the natural palette in the shades of ivory white, linen and canvas. The starting point of the collection was the first item he designed back in 1997 for his mum, after questioning whether fashion is still useful. The female casting was unbelievable, as Laetitia Casta opened the show, followed by Gigi and Bella Hadid and Vittoria Ceretti to mention but a few. They were sexy and very feminine with generous décolletées, miniskirts and skin-tight knitted dresses, yet not vulgar, as sinuose silhouettes were juxtaposed with boxy jackets and wide trenches. The men spoke a completely different language and lost the gentle women's appeal by looking a bit tacky as the same hues were not so exciting. The beefy models appeared out of tune and the styling with the unbuttoned trousers showing the boxers underneath sent the clear message of a flirty play between the two genders. The oversized masculine silhouette stressed the tacky factor and the research of an aesthetic purity worked better for women than for men.
At The Soloist, Takahiro Miyashita took a delicate and romantic approach by twisting the gentleman look into something unexpected. He carried on the bare leg trend of last winter, however, the overlook was elegant and sophisticated with hints of XVIII century men's aesthetic thanks to high horse riding boots. The nobleman he proposed wasn't nostalgic but the jumpers full of holes, the leopard scarves and lapels of the deconstructed jackets gave a rockabilly and punkish touch to the look. Miyashita always delves into research deeply and the white manifesto looks showed saturnine yet ironic messages about life and society with Charlie Chaplin's aphorisms and quotes from his most famous movies. "What do you want meaning for? Life is desire, not meaning," said one. Incredibly contemporary, isn't it?
Hermès’ luxurious approach is never affected by trends or fashion madness, as it evolves following precise rules coded with ability by Artistic Director Véronique Nichanian. Timeless items are her signature touch and the men’s collection she proposed was indecipherable because it was modern and vintage at the same time. This season, she went radical with voluminous shapes exploded in bomber jackets and ample overcoats in soft leather or shearlings. The geometry of the pure lines became decoration on cashmere sweaters that contrasted with the lining and shirts with psychedelic prints. Leisurewear, still precious, was shiny yet discreet. This time, Hermès had a modern twist that put everything into an urban landscape but still out from the trendy crowd.