Lou Dalton Menswear Spring Summer 2014 London
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Lou Dalton Menswear Spring Summer 2014 London

Lou Dalton, the opening act of London Collections: Men since its inception last June, once again set the scene flawlessly for what we are to expect over the next three days. Polished, sharp-hemmed crowds: check; classic tailoring updated with a subtle edge: check; and of course, in the vein of her signature aesthetic, clothes conjuring unusual yet enigmatic sartorial characters.

This season there was a feel of disillusioned, dislocated youth in a nomadic search for identity with slightly boxier tailored jackets falling lightly down the shoulders and cotton-linen duster coats (updated version of Dalton’s MA1) reminiscent of artist’s scrubs.  With functional gilets, quilted liners and worn out Royal Air Force-emblazoned T-shirts and trousers mixed with silk brocade sets of zip-up jackets and pleated shorts, it was 400 Blows meets The Little Prince. The distinctly lighter materials, as well as the mint green and pale pink pops amid the utilitarian palette uplifted the otherwise raw, darker edge that Dalton always seems to capture with her blunt eye for simplicity.

The aviation theme, perhaps a nod to Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s successes as a pioneering aviator, was also present in the statement aviator watch by G-SHOCK, while the tough black canvas boots with ladder lacing in collaboration with GREENSON, completed perfectly the urban-ready, lite, ensembles.

- Maria Dimitrova