Louis Vuitton Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
For those wishing they could have had a bit more of a lie-in this morning on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, it was more then a bit tempting to open one of the few dozen brown mahogany doors that circled the far edge of the Louis Vuitton catwalk which had been transformed to look like the hallway of a French luxury hotel.
If the rooms were off limits at least there was some room service being proffered up with waiters offering everything from tea and champagne to mini pancakes and patisserie to a grateful audience. It made for a convivial start to what would end up being a show about intimacy.
It is understandable that designer Marc Jacobs would have comfort clothes on his mind. After all he was forced to live at The Mark hotel after hurricane Sandy damaged his home in New York. So this was a collection about feel good pieces that had lounge wear underpinnings, but done in an ultra luxe way.
Silk dresses and skirts, as well as two piece pajamas in delicate floral motifs (think drawer liners- but in a good way) and edged lingerie lace were paired with cropped mohair sweaters, powder puff marabou feather bags, and dressing gowns crafted from menswear check fabric in soothing tones and lined with soft fur.
All of the boudoir bits of the show, the bra tops, silk lace shorts and velvet slip dresses could have become a bit heavy handed if it were not for the fact that Jacobs counteracted all of those oh so feminine pieces with a healthy dose of menswear fabrics. It made for a fantastic foundation to full length coats and tailored jackets that came embellished with a degrade of shimmering sequins at the hemline. It also softened the sexy on slip dresses or skirt suits with lace appliqués.
As the show progressed some satin evening coats that featured a retro wallpaper pattern on the shoulders, that would gently fade down into beautiful hues of lilac or plum, were real winners. But if the shear tulle dresses covered in fluttering fabric flowers looked a bit familiar, Jacobs easy cut tweed dresses shimmering from head to toe with sequins and trimmed in mink at the neckline or hem look like the epitome of relaxed sophistication.
When Jacobs came out to take his bow in a pair of red silk pajamas it was the perfect finish to a languid and lovely collection.
- Jessica Michault