The fashion set returned to the Louis Vuitton Foundation today on the outskirts of Paris to take in Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest womenswear collection for the house. But instead of using the brand spanking new venue (which housed his show last season), the designer chose to erect some Buckminster Fuller geodesic domes on the foundation’s back lawn.
Inside the biosphere, guests, including the actresses Catherine Deneuve, Jennifer Connelly, brand ambassador Michelle Williams, Dianna Agron, Chloe Grace Moretz, Selena Gomez and the dapper Belgian singer Stromae, were treated to a collection that slid along the razor's edge of future chic.
Ghesquière is one of less than a handful of fashion designers working today that can cause paradigm shifts in the industry with his sartorial ideas. For proof, look no further than the numerous runway shows of other brands this season, which clearly had elements that were direct derivatives of the designer’s work in his two previous ‘70s-inspired collections for the house. The guy almost single-handedly made that era à la mode once again.
But this season, instead of looking backwards, Ghesquière revealed a collection that stretched the imagination into an imminent new era. Where high-tech fabric and luxe materials combined to create a hyper-realized mélange that resulted in sexy cool clothing that still maintained a casual nonchalance.
The show started with a big statement coat, a fluffy white sheepskin worn by the designer’s go-to model Freja Beha Erichsen, and an even bigger statement bag. A Louis Vuitton box bag — a mini trunk if you will — with the model’s initials engraved on its front.
This was followed by four more voluminous fur coats and jackets and more box bags before finally the designer let the audience get a good look at what was going on underneath.
Their flattering ribbed knitwear separates, with sculptural undulating hemlines and lozenge-shaped openings across the chest of tops, looked smart and sexy. Even sexier were the fitted lingerie-inspired silk dresses and tops with dramatic black obtuse triangles highlighting the bosoms. And let’s not forget the animal-printed pieces covered in a bit of shimmering sequins.
The brand’s famous Damier print was referenced in the show’s tweeds, while some shimmering jacquard dresses with a jellyfish motif pulled this explorative collection in an interesting underwater direction. If the leg-of-mutton-sleeved tops seemed a bit too fussy for this fine show, the easy suits, with their drawstring waistlines, were right on the money.
This was a future perfect show. No doubt it will be often imitated, but as the saying goes…never duplicated.